Taming the Beast: How to Cut 10x10 Beams with the SKILSAW Sawsquatch

You just unboxed the SKILSAW SPT55-11 Sawsquatch. It looks incredible, but when you pick it up, the reality hits you: 18 pounds. This is not a tool you wave around like a magic wand. It is a piece of heavy artillery designed for a specific mission: One-Pass Cuts.

Many first-time users struggle with the weight or complain that it “jams if you cut too fast.” These aren’t flaws; they are user errors. This saw requires a different technique than a standard circular saw or a gas chainsaw. Here is your field guide to mastering big timber without breaking your back.

Protocol 1: The “Gravity Drop” Technique

Do not fight the weight. Use it.
The Sawsquatch is designed to cut vertically.
1. The Setup: Place your 6x6 or 10x10 beam on stable sawhorses. Ideally, the cut line should be between waist and knee height.
2. The Stance: Stand securely. Position the saw bar directly over your cut line.
3. The Drop: Engage the trigger and let the saw reach full RPM before touching the wood. Then, allow the weight of the saw to do the work. Do not force it down. The magnesium body provides enough downward pressure to feed the teeth into the wood at the optimal rate.
* Pro Tip: If you push too hard, the “Full House” chain (which has twice the cutters of a normal chain) will create too many chips at once, clogging the ejection port. Let the saw eat at its own pace.

Protocol 2: The “One-Pass” Accuracy Hack

The biggest selling point is the 14-1/4 inch depth of cut. You can slice a 12-inch log in one go. But how do you keep it square? * The Chain Barrier: The saw features a unique “Chain Barrier” near the motor housing. Use this flat surface as a reference guide against your speed square (if room permits) or follow your scribe line strictly. * The Exit: As the bar exits the bottom of the beam, be prepared to support the weight. Unlike a circular saw that rides on a shoe, the Sawsquatch can swing through if you aren’t ready, potentially damaging the finish on the bottom edge.

Protocol 3: Tensioning and Oiling

Because this is a Carpentry Chainsaw, precision is key. A loose chain means a wandering cut. * Tool-Less Tensioning: Check the tension before every major cut. The chain should snap back into the bar groove but move freely by hand. The tool-less knob makes this a 10-second adjustment—do not skip it. * The Oiler: This saw has an auto-oiler, but it needs monitoring. Carpentry involves dry, seasoned wood (unlike wet trees). This creates fine, dry dust that absorbs oil. Keep the reservoir topped off, and check that the chain is throwing a fine mist of oil. A dry chain on a worm drive motor equals a burnt bar.

The Verdict: Respect the Tool

The Sawsquatch transforms a 20-minute nightmare of flipping and matching cuts into a 15-second “hot knife through butter” experience. But it demands respect. Treat it like a precision instrument that happens to weigh as much as a bowling ball, and it will give you the cleanest timber frame joints you’ve ever produced.